Time to register here and add information that I have found.
Knocking / clunking front suspension either over lumps in the road or rocking the steering side to side.
The lower balljoints are the same as a surf kzn130 and cost £13.50 on ebay.
I just fitted both, if the bolts come out OK then the job is 45 minutes a side.
The top joints are inclusive of the arm and are around £100 at the cheapest I've found.
The contention here is that apparently there is an amount of play 'built in' 8mm is a number I found. If the vehicle is jacked up on the crossmember then the play will be felt. If it is jacked under the lower arm then it should be solid.
My suspension is knock free now after doing the bottom joints.
I have also converted both my vans to 2wd and have a microcontroller to switch the gearbox torque converter lock-up to engage at whatever speed I want.
I easily get 30mpg. 3L diesel.
The gearbox lock-up is something I found on American Toyota 4x4 forums when I got my first van. The principle is to force the torque converter to lock at whatever speed you want, not just at 54ish mph.
Their solution is to switch power to the wire from the ECU to the lock solenoid and swich off when you are about to labour the engine, manually with a dash mounted switch.
My solution was to find an ECU pinout and wired 1n4001 diodes from gear selector solenoids 1 and 2 and the brake light onto the coil of a relay and wire between the lock solenoid and nc on relay. There are 2 diodes on the lock wire to stop the ECU signal (probably PWM) from going to +12v supply.
This gives you a manual activate via switch to relay common and automatic deactivate when braking, slowing down or kick-down. Lock will resume as soon as top gear is set by the ECU which can be too slow for the lock to safely engage if accelerating very slowly. So manually switching off after or before slowing becomes a natural action. Driving without having to slow below 30mph with braking will let the gearbox lock and unlock without issue, as will kicking-down to climb a hill or overtake.
The gearbox can take double our 3.0 power so I'm not worried about excessive torque and if you accelerate hard enough the gearbox will kick down switching off the lock anyway.
But, I knew I wanted the enable to be automated using an Arduino at some point. I found some speedometer code easily, but this is for the nano type of Arduino not the expensive genuine mega that I'd bought. So I eventually found a frequency counter for the Mega and combined the codes.
In doing this with the speedo code I also bought a seven segment LED display, this shows MPH until I flick a switch then it shows KPH (for my French holidays) and shows my analogue speedo is way out too.
The lock-up enable is set to go on >29 and off <29 MPH. the lock-up gives some engine braking too which is enough not to need to cover the brake pedal while coasting in traffic. It's just nice when the van acts like it's in 5th gear (if it were a manual) and driving above 30MPH, no slushy noisy big revs to increase speed.
One caveat would be, even though I haven't even mounted the LED properly yet, I don't look at the dash clocks at all now. On any long drive I like to scan lights and guages quite frequently, so I'm going to have to see what I do now. But then, it is a Toyota, probably only need the fuel light anyway.
That's a long reply.
I am very interested in your torque converter lockup circuit, I’m not an electronic engineer but have built many projects from circuit diagrams. Would it be possible for you to supply a schematic with parts list. I’m sure others on the forum would also be interested in building such a useful modification.
I have also fitted an Eberspacher diesel heater to my van which can be turned on from my Amazon Alexa or my phone.
I'd be happy to build the kit for the gearbox lockup, using a cheaper/smaller arduino Nano, I'd need to re-develop the code as mine runs on the Mega.
The wires are grafted onto the 4 ecu and 1 speedo wires by 'peeling' the insulation and soldering on. I think it would be nice to add a button that can set the locking speed if you are in a hilly area or heavily loaded. The unit will always start at 29 but pressing the button anywhere above 29 and below 50 will set the trigger at that speed. This can be done any amount of times.
No idea what this would cost though yet. Any interest?
I was thinking of buying one from Richards Auto Electrical in Australia which is a fully automatic one and programmable to lockup and unlock at the speed you want, but not sure whether it would be compatible with the A340e gear box as fitted to some of our vehicles. Theirs is designed for the Toyota Land Cruiser 200 and quite expensive, there’s a good wright up on it at http://www.project200.com.au/torque-converter-lockup/
It may be a good idea to start a new post on this topic.
I have finally got a reply from Richards Auto Electrical about their T/C lockup kit for the Land Cruiser 200, apparently it will not work on our vehicles.
Are you still intending to manufacture your design, if not how about selling a circuit diagram with parts list that I and anyone else with the skills could build there own.
I certainly wouldn't want to manufacture them myself just don't have the time or interest but would like to build one for my Regius.
I'll do another diagram and post here at some point. Once the wiring is in it's easy to add the arduino, it just breaks the 12v feed to the relay from the switch.
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